This tutorial is about how I get my images ready for my clients to view. You can call this step proofing, or color-correcting, or even raw-conversion (since I always shoot raw). This is not retouching (dodging and burning, removing blemishes, fancy artwork, whitening teeth, etc.) which is a subject for another day. The proofs are what my clients see when they're deciding which images to order. It's only after the order is placed that the image gets the full workup in Photoshop. There are a few things I want to note here: - Never show your clients straight-out-of-the-camera images. You're a professional, so you should always be showing your clients great looking images. You can't say, "don't worry, these images haven't been color corrected - they'll look great when you get them." Sorry, that's lame. Your clients paid for a professional product, so they should see professionally presented images right from the start. - On the other hand, fully retouching every image is a quick road to bankruptcy. There aren't enough hours in the day to do this, and even if there were, other aspects of your business and life would suffer. For a typical portrait shoot, I'll fully retouch a handful of images to show the client what to expect for the finished product. Then I'll give the full treatment to every image that they actually order. - I do all my proof work using Lightroom. There are many great tools for proofing - LR, Aperture, Bridge/ACR, C1, etc. Don't use Photoshop for preparing proofs - it will take you 5x longer. Using LR, I pretty much work from top down on the "Develop" panel.
See these boxes in the upper corners of the historgram? Make sure you click on them to make them active. When you do this any clipped highlights will show up as red and clipped shadows will show up as blue.
Okay, now I'll take you through my start-to-finish process on an actual image from my last wedding. This is the image straight out of the camera. (Canon 5D w/24mm f1.4L lens, no flash, ISO 1600, f2.2, 1/500 sec, +0 EC)
Step 1: Adjust white balance to taste. This image is slightly warm and magenta to my taste, so I moved the Temp slider to the left (from 4450 to 3754) and the Tint slider also to the left (from -2 to -11). Keep in mind that white balance is a matter of taste. Some photographers like slightly warm images, but I prefer mine to be on the neutral side.
Step 2: Next I adjust the white point (exposure). In this case, the image is a bit underexposed. I moved the exposure slider to the right a half-stop (+0.49). I would have liked to move the exposure even more, but the dress was completely blowing out and losing all detail. I know this because half the dress is covered with red blotches, showing highlight clipping. To bring back the dress detail, I had to also move the "recovery" slider to +30.
Step 3: Set your black point. Here I moved the "blacks" slider to 6. This improves the contrast. At 6, I'm just starting to see a few blue blotches in the bride's hair. That's fine. If you don't see any blue blotches at all, that means you have no true blacks in your image, and it probably looks washed-out.
Step 4: I'm going slightly out of order here. In this step I went down to the "Tone Curve" box and switched the curve from "linear" to "medium contrast". This gives the curve a slight "S" shape and adds contrast to the image. In reality, my normal pre-set I use when importing images into Lightroom already does this for me.
Step 5: Give the image a final tweak using the brightness and contrast sliders. The exposure slider is the one that should do the heavy lifting regarding the brightness of your image. The brightness slider is puts on the final touch. It primarily adjuts the mid tones.
Step 6: For portraits I usually apply a bit of a vignette to focus the attention on my subject. It always cracks me up on internet forums when posters review lenses and complain about vignetting. I add vignetting to most of my images! Anyway, vignetting controls are in the "lens corrections" box:
Step 7: Sharpen. I sharpen with a Photoshop action that I run when I export the images from Lightroom. I don't sharpen until I've corrected all of my images. Then when exporting them all I run a sharpening action as a droplet so I never have to physically open up the images in Photoshop. Saves a ton of time.
And here's the "before" image again for comparison:
That's it! The entire process takes me about 30-40 seconds. If your subject doesn't need extensive retouching, preparing the images for proofing might be all you ever need to do. Sometimes I've prepared an image in Lightroom, then later given it the full Monty in Photoshop - only to find that I prefered the original, clean proof! Your proofs should look better than any images your client has ever seen - then be prepared to totally blow them away when they see their images in their fully-Photoshopped goodness! |